Why do you need grounded outlets

First, though I would like to identify that I am a licensed home inspector, however for any electrical work and advice on electrical systems I recommend my customers consult with a licensed electrician as needed. The first requirement for grounded receptacles in residential construction dates back to when the NEC National Electrical Code required laundry areas to have grounded receptacles. Devices and locations have been added to this requirement until the grounded system is a requirement throughout a modern residential home.

The adapters are inserted into a two-prong receptacle and then the adapter spade is secured to the receptacle with the center screw of the cover plate.

For these adapters to be functional, the grounding of the receptacle body and box is required. A non-grounded Outlet The most common is the replacement of the two slot receptacles with the three prong grounded receptacles. When the installation of the grounded receptacle is correct, the receptacle provides an equipment ground utilizing the round hoe in the receptacle.

Incorrectly installed the ground is not present commonly referred to as an open ground. In the event that a high-end device such as a computer plugged into an ungrounded receptacle, the performance of the device may never be affected or problems detected.

However the device can be damaged without warning at any time from static electricity that has no way of being discharged as well as another source of voltage coming in contact lightning could be one. This can originate from various sources internal as well as external of the device.

The idea of the ground is to trip the breaker preventing damage to the device or electrical shock to the user. If you have read How Batteries Work , you know that electricity must flow in a circuit. In a battery, electricity flows from one terminal of the battery to the other. In a house outlet, power flows from hot to neutral. The appliance you plug into an outlet completes the circuit from the hot slot to the neutral slot, and electricity flows through the appliance to run a motor , heat some coils or whatever.

Let's say you plug a light bulb into the outlet. The power will flow from the hot prong, through the filament and back to the neutral prong, creating light in the process. What if you were to plug a thick strand of wire straight from the hot slot to the neutral slot of an outlet? Unlike an appliance, which limits the amount of electricity that can flow to 60 watts for a light bulb or watts for a toaster , the wire would let an incredible amount of electricity flow through it.

Back in the breaker box, the circuit breaker for the outlet would detect this huge surge and it would cut off the flow of electricity.

The circuit breaker prevents the wires in the wall or the outlet itself from overheating and starting a fire. The ground slot and the neutral slot of an outlet are identical. That is, if you go back to the breaker box, you will find that the neutral and ground wires from all of the outlets go to the same place. Since they both go to the same place, why do you need both? The answer has major implications for household electrical safety. As the name implies, a ground wire is an electrical wire that extends into the ground below your home.

Electrical code requirements making ground wiring standard were phased in during the s, so most modern homes have grounded outlets and electrical panels throughout. The purpose of a ground wire is to give excess electrical charges a safe place to go. The solid mass of earth below our feet has a negative electrical charge, which means positive electrical charges are naturally attracted to it.

There was a hot red, hot black and neutral and ground… so easy uh? No matter how I hooked it up.. I hooked to two hots on the line side, the neutral on the opposite side, and the existing ground to the ground …. Tried the ground several different times but still showed open ground. Am I still safe using that outlet in the bathroom? Would appreciate some advise. Still confused about the two hots coming from the line side.. Thanks, Brad. You would have to check where those cables end up to see if and how the ground wires are hooked up.

We bought a house, knowing that the 3-prong outlets were ungrounded; our inspector did a very thorough job and tested every outlet. I hate further complicate this discussion but there are already code requirements in many municipalities that require arc-fault protective outlets or breakers to be installed in all circuits in bedrooms in residences. Some areas require them in other rooms as well. These are caused when objects like draperies, bedding, toys, etc.

You really need a licensed electrician who is aware not only of the codes that affect local installations but who understands what is and is not a safe practice.

Unfortunately, due to the inconsistent licensing and inspection practices around the country, especially in small town and rural areas, it may not be easy to get good advice or qualified workmen. Before I was retired I was a licensed electrician and certified electrical inspector — the ignorance even among my peers in the trade was scary.

One of the prior commenters is correct: BX metal armored cable is NOT considered a viable path to ground and should not be used for chassis grounding. Rigid metal conduits, like EMT, used with metal boxes, does meet the qualifications. BX cable is too generic a term. The armor on type AC armored cable has a bare aluminum jacket bonding wire is an acceptable ground path however, the armor on type MC metal clad cable is generally not an acceptable ground path unless listed specifically by UL such as Type MCAP that has an interlocked armor tested to be part of the grounding path along with a bare aluminum conductor which is in contact with armor continuously to form the entire ground path.

Usually plain MC cable includes a separate insulated ground conductor which is intended to be the ground path, not the armor jacket. I live in a city with city water. I have a old house that has two prong outlets. If I put three prong outlets in and run another wire and hook it to the nearest cold water line is this ok and legal. The main box is hooked to a cold water line thank you. In General NO! The electrical and water systems must be bonded but only nearest the contact with the ground outside.

Your water mains may be plastic, the plumbing inside may not be continuous copper, there are many reasons why this could be a non viable option outside of what allowed by code.

We ended up having to replace the pipe for the shower. All i did was flip on the light switch. If I ran a 3 wire to one receptacle on the run and attached it to a gfi would that give me the grounding needed for the other receptacles on that same run? I never commit my clients to grounding outlets.